(WCAX) - Tens of thousands of visitors flock to Shelburne Vineyard every year. But in a region not known for its winemaking, who's responsible for ensuring the high stakes crop survives harsh winters and rainy summers?

It's the sound of winemaking in August. 

Long before you pop the cork on your favorite vino, the hard work starts out in the field, combing, pruning and thinning the vines.

"It's a great upper body workout. It's part of the vin fit program we run here," said Ethan Joseph, vineyard manager and winemaker at Shelburne Vineyard.

Joseph earns a living farming 16 acres of grapes, turning the fruit into award-winning wine, which is no easy feat in Vermont. The weather is unpredictable, the growing season is short and the margin for error is unforgiving.

"We get one shot a year to do all of our winemaking," said Joseph.

August is the calm before the storm. This month, Joseph and his crew rely on the health of the fruit. In September and October, that's when things really pick up. A vineyard alone can harvest 40 tons of grapes.

"It is really a labor of love. It is an incredible amount work and you really have to be passionate about it to do it successfully," said Joseph.

This home brewer and avid gardener took over operations at Shelburne Vineyard in 2008, shortly after graduating from the University of Vermont with a degree in natural resources. He landed the gig after working part time at the vineyard throughout college. But when it comes to winemaking, he's self-taught.

"A lot of homework," said Joseph.

Joseph spent hours researching the industry and talking to more experienced producers. But most of his learning was on the job. He says successful winemakers weave art, science and craft into each bottle.
   
A new vine takes three to four years to yield a crop. Then it's another year before the fruit is fermented, pressed and ready to enjoy.

"It's a very long-term endeavor. It takes a lot of patience, it takes a lot of diligence," said Joseph. 

In Vermont, winemaking is still a niche market. Most vineyards only sprouted in the late 1990s. But Joseph says in the last five years, significant scientific advances like hybridization are allowing the industry to grow, making grapes heartier, disease resistant and quicker to ripen. 

"Depending on when you sample you have a snapshot of the nutrient, snapshot of the vine," said Joseph.

Every two to three years in spring or late summer, he snaps petioles from the leaves. They're sent to a lab for testing. It's kind of like a checkup. Joseph says healthy vines are the backbone of building a better wine. 

This year, his haul should produce 30,000 bottles of wine. It's a satisfying accomplishment at the end of a hectic harvest.

"There's nothing better than picking up a glass of wine that you've literally grew and enjoying that at the end of the day," said Joseph.

It's an Odd Job with perks to savor.