SAVENNIÈRES is a demanding wine. The characteristics that make it so distinctive and beautiful require attention and thought, which is perhaps more effort than many people would wish to devote to a beverage.But that is the tradeoff. Savennières, from the Anjou region of the Loire Valley, is intense and austere, and not quickly accessible. Unlike Sancerre, its Loire cousin, which comes with an easy Cliffs Notes explanation — It’s just sauvignon blanc! — Savennières does not lend itself to the sort of high-concept simplification-by-analogy that can appease the puzzlement of studio executives and wine novices alike.