California's Awesome Alternative White Wines

Jun 25, 2015

(WineMag) - The Golden State's winemakers are experimenting more and more with alternatives to Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

In a white wine kingdom ruled by Queen Chardonnay and Princess Sauvignon Blanc, California winemakers are increasingly rocking the royal court by opting for alternative varietals. While it’s unlikely these usurpers will dethrone the historic and deeply entrenched ruling class any time soon, there’s tremendous energy to this rebellion, which will continue to surge so long as winemakers keep focused on improving quality and consumers keep their palates open. 

The Central Coast’s myriad microclimates make the region a hotbed of this exploratory trend. The most common alternative tends to be grapes from the Rhône Valley region of France; Viognier was heralded a decade ago as Chardonnay replacement, but Roussanne is rising in popularity, as is Grenache Blanc, whose plantings have grown exponentially in recent years. 

Also relatively common are bottlings of Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris. They are the same grape, although those deemed Grigio often tend to be lighter and crisper in style, more like Sauvignon Blanc, and those labeled Gris trend ever so slightly toward a richer style. 

But this trend also marks a shift back toward regional roots. Riesling was widely planted in the early days of the Central Coast, and winemakers from Monterey to the Santa Ynez Valley are tapping back into that noble variety. Though quality varies widely, there is a renewed focus- on making Rieslings that are bone dry and mineral-driven. 

Perhaps the most surprising, and promising, of the bone-dry movement is Gewürtztraminer. Rather than treacly and cloying, these wines are vibrant with minerality, citrus zest and palate-cleansing crispness. 


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