(Wines&Vines) - With summer temperatures that exceed 100° F and winters known for deadly freezes, growing grapes east of the Rocky Mountains has its fair share of challenges. On March 19, the final day of the Eastern Winery Exposition, two viticulture specialists shared their thoughts about an even more risky proposition: growing grapes organically in the east.

Jens Gemmrich, owner and winemaker at 4,000-case Frogpond Farm Organic Winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, told the audience that organic growing is not just a farming practice, “It involves your whole lifestyle.” 

For one thing, the winemaker says, organic growing involves a lot more manual labor, such as hoeing for weed control and leafing to open up the canopy rather than spraying. Such labor can create local jobs, which is positive, but the expense has to be made up for elsewhere.

“You need to achieve a fair retail price (for your wine), because it will cost you more” to grow the grapes, Gemmrich said of adhering to organic practices.

For vineyard owners, Gemmrich suggested asking 20% to 25% more for organically grown fruit.

One of the main concerns the Ontario winemaker has heard from grapegrowers considering organic viticulture is the possibility of reduced yields. That concern is valid, says Gemmrich, who pointed to a study from researchers in the Netherlands who found organic vineyards produce 78% the yields of conventionally farmed vineyards. “You can technically push an acre organically to pretty high yields, but you’re going to run into health problems in your vineyard,” he said.

One of the main concerns the Ontario winemaker has heard from grapegrowers considering organic viticulture is the possibility of reduced yields—a fear he says is valid. “You can technically push an acre organically to pretty high yields, but you’re going to run into health problems in your vineyard,” he said.

Solving common vineyard health issues is also more complicated in the East. Gemmrich cited a problem with leafhoppers in his own vineyard that has been building for the past few years. “I am not sure what changed that it keeps creeping up on me,” he told attendees at EWE. “As a conventional farmer the solution is easy: You spray your pesticides. As an organic farmer, I have to find the cause.”