'Sideways' 10th anniversary: Does merlot still have pinot envy?

Sep 3, 2014

(OCRegister) - It’s been 10 years since a crusty, cash-strapped wino guzzled his way into our collective consciousness. Director Alexander Payne’s movie comedy “Sideways” was released in the fall of 2004 – first at the Toronto Film Festival on Sept. 13, then nationwide on Oct. 22 – and enjoyed immediate and almost universal acclaim.

Everyone loved the shenanigans of Miles, a loser-y wannabe novelist from San Diego, and his best friend Jack, who wants to sow a few last wild oats in Santa Barbara’s wine country before his pending wedding. “What happens during the seven days adds up to the best human comedy of the year – comedy, because it is funny, and human, because it is surprisingly moving,” gushed critic Roger Ebert in his glowing review of the film.

“Sideways” won an impressive list of awards, including the American Film Institute’s movie of the year honor and an Oscar for best adapted screenplay. Made for only $16 million, it brought in almost $110 million, pretty phenomenal for a small, starless film bereft of explosions or special effects. And it boosted the careers of its four leads: Paul Giamatti, Thomas Haden Church, Virginia Madsen and Sandra Oh.

But though its success is indisputable, a decade after its release there’s continuing debate about what “Sideways” did to the California wine industry. Many early claims about huge changes, both positive and negative, in wine sales were overstated, according to some industry experts. Others say the movie’s effect, while pronounced and measurable, was simply part of a larger trend.

“I think the movie really (reflected) how the market was already changing,” said Morgen McLaughlin, executive director of the Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Association, pointing to certain clear demographic shifts that were already in play as younger people began to show more interest in wine. “I tend to be very careful about attributing any changes to the movie specifically.”


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