(Forbes) - Mendocino’s historic and richly deserved reputation as America’s pot capitol is finally giving way to a new reputation as producer of world class wines. Medals are being awarded and critics are oohing and ahhing over the likes of delicious pinot noirs from Drew Wines and intriguing chardonnays from Parducci Cellars. Bigger winery names such as Cakebread and Duckhorn are adding vineyards, opening wineries, and celebrating the prestige of Mendocino terroir. Indeed, not long ago fruit was quietly shipped out of the county to make wines elsewhere. And yet, despite all of the long-deserved recognition, the locals greet these changes with reluctant enthusiasm and a whiff of skepticism. 

Deborah Cahn, a self-described “aging hippie” and owner of Navarro Vineyards, moved with her husband to Mendocino’s Anderson Valley in the 1970’s to grow Alsatian varietals. In fact, she and her husband originally supplied Roederer Estate with grapes while the sparkling producer was getting up and running. Cahn is one who is careful not to jump for joy at all the newfound attention, stating, “I want moderate success but I don’t want to be Napa.”

Today Cahn confesses “shock” at seeing 30 wineries in her once remote and quiet valley. Of course, it’s still quiet and remote—but the young energy is promising. Notes Jim Roberts, proprietor of Anderson Valley’s boutique Inn, The Madrones, “There is a whole new group of young people here who are really into food and wine. It’s a gift to have that new energy in Mendocino.”