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GRAPE-OCALYPSE NOW? Climate change will leave wine lovers drunker and poorer
Aug 4, 2014
(QZ) - On Jul. 17, Australia scrapped its carbon tax—hardly a surprising move given that the country’s prime minister, Tony Abbott, once called evidence of climate change “absolute crap.”
Australia’s winemakers, however, don’t seem to agree with Abbott. Several leading wineries are investing in Tasmania, a cooler island state 240 kilometers (150 miles) south of continental Australia. Wine production there is now growing nearly 10% a year, reports the Australian Broadcasting Corporation, while production for the country as a whole is expanding at an average of about 1% a year since 2009.
It’s not just Australia, though. Traditional winemaking strongholds like Tuscany and South Africa will soon become too hot for grape-growing. In fact, by warping the flavors of the most popular varieties and driving production away from the Earth’s poles, climate change is threatening to remake the entire $30-billion global wine industry (pdf, p.14).
Does that mean a “grape-ocalypse” is upon us? No. But it does mean the wine you sip a decade or two from now will taste very different from today’s tipple—and will be a lot pricier, too.
The “good problem”
While politicians like Abbott might debate whether the climate is changing, to winemakers, it’s been undeniable. So far, though, it’s mostly been a boon. Warmer temperatures have improved ripening, boosting quality of wine (pdf, p.98) and increasing yield. This is why in Bordeaux, for example, winemakers refer to climate change as the “bon problème.“
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