Rieslings already are putting the Finger Lakes wine region on the map.A group of Cornell University researchers is trying to make the variety even better. Among them is Anna Katharine Mansfield, an enologist who is nurturing the Riesling Terroir Project, which seeks to determine the defining characteristics of what's bottled in the Finger Lakes and precisely how Rieslings grown on various Finger Lakes differ from each other. Ultimately, this would mean marketers could talk up the qualities that are truly unique to our Rieslings or to specific lakes. And that, in the wine world, is how reputations are made.