Wine enthusiasts and producers have waged numerous arguments over which state - Oregon or California - produces the best pinot noir. It is a war not likely to be resolved here or anywhere.We have visited both wine regions several times and have spent recent weeks tasting pinot noirs from both states. Each produces some great wines, thanks to improved site selection, lower yields and better viticultural management. One distinct difference is the level of alcohol. Many of the most heralded California pinot noirs - Kosta Browne, Loring and Sine Qua Non, for instance - are sporting alcohol levels of 15 to 16 percent after years of producing consistent levels of 13 to 14 percent. Their critics derisively call these high-alcohol wines "fruit bombs" that more resemble an Australian shiraz than a French burgundy. In spite of the criticism, they sell well and score high by well-known critics.