Despite the chill pouring in through the open window next to my desk, spring is here. For me, that means thoughts turn to riesling, German riesling in particular. In a few weeks I will post our wine panel report on the 2008 Mosel kabinetts, a rare and marvelous vintage for these lovely, delicate wines. By all rights nature’s annual season of rebirth ought to inspire feelings of optimism and excitement. This year, however, thoughts of spring and the Mosel are bringing sadness instead, because of a ungainly highway project that would put a four-lane, mile-long bridge right through some of the finest and most historic vineyards of the Mosel.