Chardonnay led the way last year as California vintners crushed more than 4 million tons of grapes, up from 3.7 tons the year before.Although the white wine grape was the single most popular grape varietal crushed during the 2009 harvest, accounting for nearly 18 percent of the crush, more red grapes were processed overall for wines and juices, according to figures released by U.S. agriculture officials this month. Zinfandel and cabernet sauvignon grapes were the second most-popular in the survey.