(SJ-R) - The Illinois wine industry grew straight through the Great Recession.

A federal census completed in 2012 found the number of wineries in the state passed 100 between 2007 and 2011. Wine production increased 16 percent to more than 546,000 gallons annually.

But Illinois wine producers are using only about half of their capacity, the census found. The domestic wine-making industry remains small by comparison to major producing states such as California, and Illinois wines have been slow to make it onto Illinois restaurant menus.

The census shared at an annual wine competition last week did show wineries in every area of the state. The first few opened in the late 1980s in southern Illinois. Wine and winery trails also have become a key pitch for Illinois tourism.

“Wineries are still coming on board. The market is there,” said Megan Pressnall of the Illinois Grape Growers and Vintner Association.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture conducted the special census in cooperation with the association.

“It’s not an easy job. It’s a lot of hard work and a long-term commitment,” said association wine specialist and researcher Bradley Beam. He said it costs about $20,000 an acre to establish a vineyard.

Beam was in Springfield last week for the Illinois State Fair wine judging finals. More than 230 commercial wines and 150 home-brewed craft wines were entered in the competition, which was held Monday through Wednesday at Lincoln Land Community College.

Winners will be announced at the state fair in August.