(Bloomberg) - Whenever a first growth Bordeaux chateau is ready to share some behind-the-scene secrets, there’s no way I’d miss out. I joined an eager-tongued group of New York journalists and sommeliers at Corkbuzz Wine Studio a week ago to sample results from Chateau Margaux’s research program. There were several surprises. “Bordeaux has a reputation for stuffy tradition, but we’re not stick-in-the-mud,” says the grand estate’s managing director Paul Pontallier. Slim and elegant in a hand-tailored suit and pink tie, he bounces slightly on the balls of his feet, typically a sign he’s feeling expansive.