(WSJ) - "The market is flooded with wine distributors and wines, but we're building a Noah's Ark," said Steve Doran, head of sales and one of the four founding partners of Verity Wines, a Manhattan-based wine distributor. The image is dramatic, if a touch histrionic: After all, Verity, less than 4 years old, is already one of the most successful wine distributors in New York. Mr. Doran's somewhat theatrical words can be explained by the many changes—and challenges—he and his partners have seen in the wine business over the years. Mr. Doran for many years worked at Lauber Imports, a medium-size wine company, until it was purchased by corporate behemoth Southern Wine & Spirits.