(BDLive) - YOU hardly ever meet a producer who tells you how bad the vintage is — at least, not while he’s crushing the grapes. He’ll say it’s tough, he may even admit it’s not as good as some legendary vintage (now unfortunately sold out). He may finally admit, once the last bottle has been dispatched from his cellar, that it was one of the worst harvests on record. However, while there’s fruit on the vine or juice in the tanks, no one mentions the shrivelled bunches of grapes, the grey rot everywhere, the burst skins, the fruit flies.