(SFGate) - When it comes to descriptions of California wine, it is rare to see the words "character" and "value" in the same sentence. Character, after all, is usually something you pay a premium for, an amalgam of site selection, varietal expression and sensitive winemaking, resulting in a state of grace in the glass. Value wines, on the other hand, usually filter these good graces through the economy of scale. They draw from multiple appellations and vineyard sources, and employ less fussed-over fruit. They are large operations that often must cut corners - and character is often the first thing to go.