(BaltimoreSun) - Burgundy has long championed the concept of "terroir," a term that refers to a unique combination of soil, site, climate and the hand of man to create a wine with signature characteristics that convey a sense of place. It's a general concept that attempts to explain why the same plant expresses itself differently when grown in different places. These subtle location-linked variations in flavor, long attributed to the grapevine, are now being recognized in teas, coffees and cocoa beans in a globalization of the terroir manifesto. And that's where the French want to draw the line.