(NYTimes) - IT was after 11 p.m., the usual dinner hour in the heart of sherry country. Olives, almonds and thin slices of ham glistening with oil had been served; platters of langoustines and thick steaks were to come. The attention of everyone around the long wooden table in this quiet restaurant was on the sherry, a fino that had been bottled five years ago. Conventional wisdom suggests that fino sherries must be consumed when they are young or they will lose their vitality and wither. But this sherry, bottled by Equipo Navazos, a sort of high-end sherry négociant, was fresh, tangy, complex and deep; thoroughly delicious and a revelation no matter how you feel about sherry.