(TheDailyBeast) - In the early part of the 21st century, some drinkers and restaurants started to bellyache about the increasing heft of California wines. Their alcohol levels, once a modest 12.5 percent, had plumped up to more than 14 percent—and often above 16 percent. The disgruntled said the wines were cloddy, thick, and heavy. Gone was nuance and variety. These jammy, fruity drinks became the new definition of California wine.