(TheGlobeandMail) - Anthony Bourdain’s foul-mouthed exuberance for wine and food can be infectious. You can pretty much gauge the American chef’s passion for a subject based on the expletive count in his globetrotting Travel Channel series No Reservations, and there’s no shortage of unfit-for-newsprint words in one recent episode about a country starting to make a splash on the international culinary scene. “The next big thing is Croatia,” he announced. “If you haven’t been here, you’re a [bleeping] idiot.”