(WSJ) - Such has been the expansion of the world's wine map in the past 15 years that amidst the whirligig of new styles, grape varieties and flavors, we often overlook some of the more exciting developments happening in the world's oldest wine-producing regions. Take Pinot Noir, for example. Tomes have been written about the success of this grape variety, planted in California and Oregon in the U.S., as well as in Australia, Chile and New Zealand. But outside its spiritual home on the Côte d'Or in France's Burgundy region, it is in the valleys of southwest Germany where some of the most interesting examples are emerging.