(JancisRobinson) - Wine has become such a universal interest that I'm no longer surprised when I hear of yet another country's first commercial vineyard or winery. In fact a common phenomenon in the world's more exotic locations for wine production is for someone to plant a few vines, build a cellar door (often without much of a cellar) and set up shop selling wine labelled as though it is a local product but which in fact depends heavily on wine imported in bulk from wherever is cheapest at the time (often Chile, sometimes Spain or Italy).