(TheDailyBeast) - Natural wine, which strives to use only one of 200 additives approved by the Federal Drug Administration—i.e., grapes—is increasingly popular. But wine writers everywhere see problems with it. They argue that without sulfur the wines will spoil. Others say that the wines are “homogeneously cidery and coarse” and compare them to bad vinegar. Even the esteemed critic Robert M. Parker Jr. called natural wine “one of the major scams being foisted on wine consumers.” With blog headlines such as “Natural Wine: The Ugly Underbelly,” the backlash has turned particularly harsh. So I pose the question: are we talking wine or war? Having written two books on the topic, and finding myself drinking this stuff at least 95 percent of the time, I feel protective.