(NYTimes) - This hamlet in the hills of northern Burgundy hardly looks like the wellspring of a winemaking revival. On a damp Monday morning in March, only the distant rattle of a tractor breaks the silence. A suspicious pair of eyes monitors a visiting car’s progress down the Grande Rue Nicolas Droin; in these parts, even the dogs can pick out Paris license plates. But Courgis (population 260) is home to two of the most forward-thinking producers of Chablis, whose vineyards surround Courgis and several neighboring villages. Thomas Pico, of Domaine Pattes Loup, and Alice and Olivier de Moor, of their eponymous winery, are making Chablis of startling quality, using natural, ecologically friendly methods that many of their peers long ago abandoned.