(WSJ) - Wine struggles with its ubiquity. "The trouble is, everywhere seems to make it these days," remarked a Canadian friend of mine who couldn't believe the number of stories she had read about countries planting vineyards. "Every day you pick up the paper and see another country is giving it a go. Pretty soon they will be making wine everywhere." I had to agree. Of course in commercial terms, Europe still dominates the wine-producing map, but a quick flick through the latest edition of "The World Atlas of Wine" shows that India, China, Japan, Uruguay, Malta, Luxembourg and even Canada, a country one associates with vast prairies, soaring mountain ranges and cold winters, all produce wine.