(WSJ) - Anyone interested in what is happening in the world of wine should be looking toward Spain. From a viticultural perspective, it is one of the most fascinating wine-producing countries in Europe, if not the world. Ask me which wines I have had the most fun tasting this year and, unquestionably, the answer is those offbeat grape varieties, grown by small, often young, artisanal wine producers in the northwest of the country. Varieties such as Albillo, Graciano and Mencia may not mean as much as Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon, but they are helping producers in spearheading a movement that puts a greater emphasis of indigenous regional styles, reintroduces traditional grape varieties and uses oak sensitively.