(Sciencemag) - Sicilian winemakers don't stomp grapes with their feet anymore. But in the south of the Italian island, many vintners still follow many of the old ways, making wine by mixing mashed grapes in old stone and concrete troughs and then letting fermenting microbes native to that same vineyard convert sugars into alcohol. Researchers have now taken a census of these local wine yeasts, showing that many can compete with, or even outstrip, widely sold industrial yeasts used to make wines.