(Telegraph) - The much-maligned carignan grape is being re-evaluated by the growers of the Languedoc, and further afield. Pierre Bories isn’t shy about his love of the carignan grape. Actually, the French city trader turned Languedoc winemaker doesn’t seem to be shy about anything. “I like carignan a lot,” he says with cheery defiance, “so there’s a lot of it in that wine,” nodding at the bottle. How much? The wine I am tasting on a cold winter day in the south of France is an AOC Corbières so it can’t, by law, be made from more than half carignan, like it says on the technical sheet I have in front of me. Can it?