(Heraldscotland) - Thirty years ago, without their being aware of grape varieties, wine drinkers wouldn't venture beyond some reasonably well-known appellations and a handful of brands. The choice was simple – either claret, chianti and the likes of Blue Nun and Black Tower. Buying by grape seems natural now, but it was a radical move at the time and helped turn wine drinking from a minority sport into a mainstream vice. Many believe it started with Australian chardonnay, but the real pioneer was much closer to home.