(NYtimes) - In France, where three-quarters of the electricity is nuclear, you are rarely far from a reactor. Even in the most famous French terroirs, a bulky power plant sometimes squats just across a river or over a hill. From Burgundy to Bordeaux, from the Loire Valley to Languedoc, the crushing of grapes is powered by the smashing of atoms. Even before the current wave of nuclear anxiety that is sweeping across Europe, this proximity had become too much to bear for the vignerons of one winemaking region in the Rhône Valley. A nearby nuclear plant encroached upon something even more important than their land: their name.