(LATimes) - As this country's wine tastes shift away from bombast toward more balanced efforts, let's imagine we could reduce that trend to a single wine from a single place. This wouldn't be a wine made to floor you, overpower you or incite some rapturous state. It wouldn't be a "great" wine, a high-scoring wine. On the contrary, it would be a wine that symbolizes the waning years of point-score piety, a wine for which profundity is an option but not an expectation, a wine whose sole purpose is to charm. And if you're going to be moved by it, it will be due not to the wine's depth or complexity but to its simplicity and clarity of expression.