(Theglobeandmail) - For all the hedonism that wine epitomizes, it can cause its share of anxiety. Nowhere is the dread more palpable than at a fancy restaurant. The markups alone can cause indigestion even before the appetizers arrive. But it’s not just about money. How do you find the best selection for your dinner when the list is fatter than the Tokyo phone book? What if the pinot noir you select ends up smelling like a pair of old sneakers? Do you risk the shame of proclaiming it off when, in fact, it’s supposed to taste like old sneakers?