(NewYorkTimes) - In an 18th-century cellar under his family home in this village in Burgundy, Franck Follin-Arbelet pulls the corks on two of his 2009 red wines. Each comes from a vineyard in Aloxe-Corton. Each has the same quality imprimatur, premier cru. Each was made from the same grape variety, pinot noir. The first wine has a deep ruby color. It is aromatic, fruity and smooth. Even though it was bottled only a few months ago, it is, like many other 2009 Burgundies, already delicious.