A Chinese cabernet has beaten 560 wines from Bordeaux to win a Decanter award. Some see it as a turning point like the so-called “Judgment of Paris” blind tasting in 1976 that put Californian wines above Old World rivals. Even for those who will not race off to comb Waitrose for Chinese vintages, the news is good. Leaving aside cheap jests about wanting another bottle 20 minutes after you’ve finished the first, success in the Chinese wine industry benefits drinkers who will never taste a drop of Jia Bei Lan.