Austria—While sitting in a café in this famously atmospheric city, sluicing down a pleasant Austrian red wine (a Zweigelt, if you must know), I couldn't help but ponder a question that has plagued American wine lovers for decades: Are European wines superior? Now, before you get all huffy and chest-puffy with national pride, allow me to point out that 30 years ago this question was no question at all. Even most California wine producers back in the 1970s agreed that European wines were superior compared with their own fledgling efforts