Hi Sang Lee is proud of his motto "plus one," which means making the effort to take one more step. "We want to be the best at whatever we do," he said. It took many steps—and locals estimate over $25 million—for Mr. Lee to achieve one of his goals: Create a winery that could reach the pinnacle of the competitive, ego-fueled California winemaking community. In 2005, Mr. Lee, a 65-year-old Korean businessman nicknamed Chairman Lee, bought six vineyard acres, an old ranch house, a barn and the crumbling ruins of a 19th-century winery. He then hired what he believed was the best architect (Howard Backen), the most esteemed winemaker (Philippe Melka) and the most professional vineyard manager (Pete Richmond).