The vibrant heart of California winemaking lies in the marginal varietals like Grenache, Albariño – and Chardonnay. Writing in the June issue of Decanter magazine, US wine critic Jon Bonné says the ‘real momentum’ in California comes from smaller wineries. ‘The state’s established labels (often now owned by corporate interests) aren’t going anywhere’, he says. Bonné, wine critic at the San Francisco Chronicle, says there is a ‘major change afoot in California, with new and more subtle styles of wine, typically made by small producers and younger winemakers, frequently after time spent apprenticing in Europe.’