Back when Earth Day started in 1970, organic food meant withered, bug-eaten produce sold at food co-ops by tattooed, ponytailed hippies of questionable hygiene. Organic wine meant something “rustic” of equally questionable hygiene that was likely to go really funky in the bottle. Today, organic food is mainstream (tattoos, too). And organic wine — or at least, “green,” environmentally friendly wine — is in vogue as well. But green wine is a thorny subject because of confusing definitions and varying standards that leave the consumer bemused at best and confused at worst.