PACKAGING has long been a revolutionary force in the world of wine. For example, before the invention of cork closures, wine was bottled — or really decanted from cask — only at the moment of service. In those days it was customary to seek out the most youthful offerings: these were less likely to have turned to vinegar as a result of oxidation and poor storage. The potential complexity of aged, unfortified dry wine was unknown and was discovered only once it was possible to seal wine in a bottle.