Congress is rebottling a bad idea: a tougher protectionist law that would restrict the ability of California wineries to sell to wine lovers in other states. Liquor wholesalers, worried about losing their grip on the industry, want to rewrite the rules to help themselves, not consumers or vintners. The bill gives states the power to put up legal fences such as requirements that a buyer visit a favorite winery, have a signature on file or buy only from a major producer.