Inside the vast, stainless steel tanks of the Skovin winery, 17 million litres of smooth red and white wine slowly mature. This winemaker is the unlikely victim of a dispute over names between Macedonia and Greece, a long-running disagreement that is currently being played out before the international judges. Near the Macedonian capital, Skopje, Skovin is one of the country's largest producers. Once ready, the wine is sold with the simple labels Macedonian Red or Macedonian White.