HEALDSBURG, Calif. — The chic wine country town of Healdsburg has a little secret. Fine wine is just the beginning of the attractions on tap here. Poke around antique shops, eat at a Michelin-starred restaurant, float down a lazy river — those are just some of your options. Not that long ago, Healdsburg was a sleepy spot known as "the buckle on the prune belt." The prunes are long gone, replaced by vineyards. And these days, if you are doing any sleeping here, it may very well be on the Coyuchi organic sheets of the h2hotel, one of several new or newly refurbished boutique hotels that have sprung up in recent years.