There's no getting away from it. The wines I have enjoyed most over the past few weeks, festive season included, have had something inescapable in common. They have all been from Spain. Should this come us a surprise? Hardly. Spain's extraordinary diversity as a wine-producing nation is no secret. They are making some of the most exciting wines in just about every category. No wonder that the Wine Society, a very dependable indicator of wine trends with more than 100,000 enthusiastic members, reports that sales from Spain have risen by 25 per cent over the last year.