The oldest winery in Lodi just installed the latest thing in winemaking technology: a nearly $1 million "flash détente" system that provides better control over flavor and color, particularly in red wine. "It's really exciting," said Barry Gnekow, a consulting winemaker working with Lodi Vintners and other area wineries. "I've never in my whole career seen technology that gives the winemaker so many options."After processing in the new system, the juice can be fermented with skins or without. The condensate or a portion of it can be returned to the juice, or water substituted instead.