Many of the wines are great, especially a pétillant naturel, or slightly sparkling natural wine made by AT Roca’s Anima Mundi in Penedès, Spain, and a gardenia-scented Arneis from Emanuele Rolfo Roero in Piedmont, Italy. LaLou co-owner Joe Campanale favors wines that are vibrant and complex, and “present on the cleaner side”—and these wines do. When it comes to natural wine, showing up “clean,” rather than cloudy and funky tasting, speaks to a central issue for the category, especially for attracting the uninitiated to this type of wine. Do wines made with as little man-made intervention as possible actually taste good?