These are worrying times for the king of sparkling wines, but the star performers somehow manage to sail through the choppy waters of international trade without any apparent feather-ruffling.

Figures released this month by Champagne's governing body the CIVC make worrying reading for those whose livelihoods depend on perpetuating the perception of Champagne being the ultimate sparkling wine. It is, obviously, with a tradition of excellence – in marketing as well as winemaking – going back centuries, but recently non-champagne fizzes have been encroaching.