(Winemag) - Super Tuscans arrived decades ago. It was a category born of frustration with Italy’s traditional wine production rules. Ambitious producers sought to make modern styles and experiment outside the restrictions of the Italian appellation system, known as Denominazione d’Origine Controllata (DOC).

“Super Tuscan became synonymous with wines of high quality from the [broader] IGT [Indicazione Geografica Tipica] appellation,” says winemaker Bibi Graetz, who makes wine under his namesake brand outside Florence.

Rebelliousness helped market the super Tuscan story, while quality and singularity helped sell their wines.