This is a nation that for decades held together its producers, both large and small, prestigious and bargain-basement, under overarching appellation banners. Terroir (at least in terms of a formal classification) didn't come into it – historically, the quality of wines were associated with the length of time they spent in barrel and bottle.

Debates raged – behind closed doors – as to whether the DO frameworks reflected the priorities and values of all producers. Many now claim that they've always resented being classified under one generic appellation structure. Yet they all chose to keep very quiet about it until the 21st Century.