China-grown wine isn’t a new phenomenon by any means. A couple of regions—most notably Ningxia and Shandong—are gaining reputable traction for their bottles. But in a warren of more than 300 tiny blocks of vineyards spread among four villages on the steep banks
of the Mekong River, in the southwest of China far from the better-known regions, Ao Yun isn’t taking a slow-growth route to mere respectability. With only two vintages under its belt, the young winery has already garnered critical international acclaim for its Cabernet Sauvignon blend. In terms of price alone ($300 retail), owner Moët Hennessy has positioned Ao Yun in the ranks of bottles from the top Bordeaux-variety-producing regions of the world.