(SFChronicle) - If a bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir has the word “Willamette” on its front label, would you assume that it comes from the Willamette Valley?

Probably, but if the bottle in question happened to be the 2017 Willametter Journal Pinot Noir, you would be wrong. Although the brand’s name implies a connection to the Willamette Valley, and although the front label includes the text “the Willamette region of Oregon’s coastal range,” the wine does not, in fact, qualify for the Willamette Valley appellation.

It’s one of the points in a larger controversy brewing over the Willametter Journal’s creator, Joe Wagner.